Empusa (Empusa) guttula (Thunberg, 1815)
(from Egypt)
Report by Sören Materna
English Translation : C.Herger Thomann
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Empusa (Empusa) guttula (Thunberg, 1815) (from Egypt) Report by Sören Materna English Translation : C.Herger Thomann
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Description |
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| Distribution : | my line from Egypt (North-Africa, Spain, France and surroundings) |
| Size : | ca.7-8.5 cm |
| Life-span : |
Females 8-12 weeks Males 3-6 weeks |
| Color : | The animals can be all shades from tan to dark brown, pink and almost black. The wings of the adults can be bright green and can have pink or lilac bases. |
| Terrarium : |
With a group of approximately 5 adult pairs, one should have a terrarium of no smaller than 60*60*90 (L/W/H) cm.
This size terrarium can be used to breed up to 30 to 40 nymphs to the sub-adult stage.
Single adult females can be kept in a size of 20*20*25 cm.
The terrarium walls should be lined with cork or other rough surface as the animals cannot hold onto glass very well.
The lid of the terrarium should consist of guaze, as this is sufficient to guarantee ventilation and will serve as a surface for the animals to suspend from.
If one uses a standard stand-type terrarium with a cover that is slitted for ventilation, one should cover that with guaze on the interior at least.
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| Equipment : |
Some branches, whose branching and thickness should be adapted at the size of the animals, form the main equipment.
One needs to keep an eye out that the animals have sufficient space to hang for moulting.
The substrata must not store moisture.
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| Food : |
The Empusas are flying insect specialists.
They can catch their prey with unbelievable skill as it flies by.
Therefore, one should only offer them flying insects.
Flies are the simplest and cheapest feed.
According to the size of the Empusa, simply procure fishing maggots or the somewhat smaller Pinkflies (which are cheaper by the liter).
One can store these a very long time in the refrigerator (1.5-2 months).
Every 2 days, take a portion from the refrigerator and after about 7-10 days the flies emerge.
This way one always has sufficient food.
In order to increase the food value of the flies, feed them with some honey, juices, pollens or the like.
Wax-moths are also suitable, but these should not be the main food as they are high in fat content.
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| Humidity: |
This should be as low as possible.
A normal humidity of 40-50% is recommended.
I never spray the animals directly.
Also not shortly before moulting.
I have had no problems with faulty moultings.
The animals meet their entire moisture demand from their food.
Therefore, feed them regularly above all else.
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| Temperature : |
In order to guarantee an optimal development, temperatures should be maintained between 35¡ and 45¡C during the day.
At night the temperature should not fall under 23¡C.
It is best to install a heater mat or cable under the terrarium which should be left on at night.
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| Light : |
Small halogen spot-lights are suitable illumination.
These also help bring the day-time temperatures to approximately 45¡C.
The Empusas will pick out optimal places for themselves.
If the terrarium stands in a dimmer place, an additional neon lamp should be used (rather it be too bright than too dim).
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| Behavior : |
Since this mantid is rarely cannibalistic, they are suitable for group-rearing.
As my line comes from Hurgada Egypt, these animals need no diapause.
Animals from Spain or France should be treated to diapause.
With these, the development time is considerably longer.
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| Mating : |
The Empusas become sexually mature approximately 1 week after the final moult.
I have some paired animals in a 20*20*25 cm terrarium.
The animals are very compatible and occasionally mate within a space of several days.
However, one can also accommodate many animals in a terrarium together.
That way, the females have the advantage of picking out their males.
Under these conditions the losses are very low.
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The Oothecae :
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The animals lay approximately 1 day to 1 week after mating and can lay up to 21 oothecae.
As a rule, the ootheca is set aside for 2 days.
After approximately 10 oothecae, the time between laying extends to about 4 days.
After 2-3 weeks, the nymphs emerge en-mass (if there is no fungus).
An ootheca contains between 15 and 30 eggs.
The rib-count of the ootheca will determine the nymph count quite well.
Simply multiply the rib-count by 3.5.
So, if the ootheca has 6 ribs, there will be approximately 21 numphs.
I never spray the oothecae directly.
In the area where I found the animals (Egypt), the last time it rained was 4 years ago and before that 70 years ago.
Therefore, they are used to extreme dryness.
One should only be careful that the oothecae are not hung directly under the light, else it will be fried.
The females lay their oothecae there, as that is where they stay.
They lay quite often on the gauze covering.
If the terrarium temperature is 35¡C average, one can allow the oothecae to remain in the container (fungus will only tolerate approximately 27¡C).
Just remember to remove the female from the terrarium after about 12 days.
If the oothecae are laid on a branch, they should be seperated for incubation, however.
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Nymph Rearing : |
The nymphs are held under the same conditions as the adults.
I have also never sprayed the nymphs.
First instar Empusas will feed about one day after emerging.
They already capture big fruit-flies without problems.
Afterwards, feed with Pinkflies, then meat-flies, wax-moths and anything else that flies.
The males moult 5 times and the females 6.
For this they need approximately 6-8 weeks.
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Sexes : |
One can readily distinguish the sexes very early (after the 2nd moult).
It is very simple with a good magnifying glass (10x) and some practice.
The females have 5 abdominal plates on the underside and the males 6.
Exactly like Gongylus gongylodes.
The antennae are another difference.
This is recognizable much later, however (L5).
The females have thin antennae up to the adult stage.
The males can be recognized from the 3rd moult with antennae becoming thicker at the base.
They become thicker after each moult and longer.
In the adult stage, the males have very long and feathered antennae, similar to a moth.
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| Males | Females |
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